Posts Tagged ‘sewing’

Another Sewaholic Cambie Dress

Sunday, May 13th, 2012

Hi Everyone!

My readers who sew have probably seen a lot of Sewaholic Cambie dresses about on the internetz lately. I too, was one of the fortunate ones to be picked by Tasia to test her latest pattern.
And I’m so glad I got the opportunity because I’m now a complete convert and want to buy some of her other patterns too!

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I chose the A-Line version of the skirt to make up since we’re heading into winter here and I wanted something I could wear to work that was warm and also office appropriate. I had the perfect fabric in my stash too – Pretty sure this is a wool blend of some sort – with not too much wool – just enough to make pressing easy. It’s got a very fine houndstooth pattern which is a b**** to photograph, and I used a black satin (probably poly) for the straps. The lining is that grey cotton voile stuff I’ve had forever which is perfect for linings but is now sadly all gone.

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There are so many awesome things about this pattern! It’s a super flattering style which really is very versatile as Tasia mentions. I will definitely be making the full skirt version after seeing so many pretty floral ones made up by others (links below).

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It has POCKETS. I cut mine on the opposite angle compared to the rest of the dress and while the effect is very subtle, I think it’s pretty neat.

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It was SO easy to make – seriously. It took me a single day to knock this out – including the lining and finishing. The zipper is half done by hand half not….I sewed it in according to Tasia’s instructions at first, but because I didn’t use an invisible zip, it still needed a fold to cover the teeth. So I did the rest like a hand picked zipper. The instructions are really clever too and I learnt quite a few tips and tricks while making it.

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The sizing is perfect for me. I made a size 2 which didn’t need a single alteration – not even in the length. Awesome huh!

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I wear this to work a lot now – It’s so comfortable and fits really well.

Now I’m going to see if I can round up some links of the other Cambie dresses – they’re also on Tasia’s site but I’ll put them here too.

Tasia’s bright floral linen
Scruffy Badger Time made 2!!
Knitter’s Delight used a retro looking print
Molly made a beautiful full skirted floral one
Doortje’s stunning eyelet cotton  (wow – new blog to read too!)
Amy in a delicate floral voile (thank you Google for another blog)

Okay – that’s as many as I could find on Google – If there are any others out there, let me know – I love seeing how each person has made theirs.

Other news: Right now I’m finishing of a dress – still petrified of my coat….and….Going to do lots of fabric cutting soon. This weekend we’ve been rearranging the house in prep for our dining table, so my desk has shifted a bit. Also, I tidied my sewing area a little and my patterns are more easily accessible.

Til soon!

How to make a belt without turning your fabric!

Sunday, May 6th, 2012

Hi All!!
Like promised, it’s tutorial time! I won’t say too much and let the pics do the talking. If you have any questions or need clarification, ask me in the comments :-)
This is the easiest way to make a belt to go with your dresses and you only need a narrow, long strip of your fabric, some interfacing, a belt buckle and a snap. Oh – and your sewing machine and thread!
That said, if you had the patience and no sewing machine, you could do it by hand too.
I can knock one of these up in half an hour or so…well – I haven’t timed myself… Hehe.

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What I haven’t got is more pics of my dress with the sleeve detail. I’ve been busy this weekend – making up a new dress, to a pattern I’ve used before…and working on my coat. Which is going slowly but that’s ok.

Soon I shall have more drawings for you, that promised sleeve detail and my Cambie Dress (I was another lucky tester!).

Till soon!

Mccall 6006 – Mad for Polkadots!

Monday, April 30th, 2012

Hiii!

LOTS of pics today!!

This dress, made from Mccall’s 6006 (1945) has to be my favourite make so far! I am so so in love with 1940′s Mccall’s patterns – they’re just the best. What I love about this one is – the cool cap sleeves…If you could call them that. Maybe flutter sleeves? The tucks at the shoulder and back waist. The gathering on the front waist….The awesome gored skirt.

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I didn’t change much on this pattern at all. The waist came in about 1.5 inches.

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The fabric is more from my stash. I’ve been waiting to use this one on the perfect pattern and I’m glad it became this. It’s a cotton of some sort with the nice soft drape perfect for this era.

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I did quite a bit of hand finishing – The way the sleeve attaches to the bodice requires a lot of turning over and sewing down since there’s quite a few raw edges under there. Very strange construction because the sleeve is attached around the outside of the bodice and is then bound. I wish I could show you the construction pics on my dress form but once it was put together it no longer fits on her.

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The side closure is my preferred snaps on a placket :-)
And the seams are finished with rayon bias tape on the bodice, and French seams on the skirt.

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I made a self fabric belt to go with. Made the way the pattern instructs – which requires no tedious turning of the fabric!! I took some pics while I was sewing it so I can make a tutorial. Would anyone be interested in that? It’s quite simple but a great way to use up any strips of fabric you may have left over from making a garment.
Actually, it’s so easy, I whipped up an orange belt in less than an hour just the other day.

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Also – there are shoulder pads!! Yes. Shoulder pads. I decided, after trying on the bodice, that the sleeves did need just a little structure. I bought some cotton batting and made some small triangular pads which aren’t the big fugly 80′s ones that usually come to mind when someone says ‘shoulder pads’. Hehe.

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All in all, I couldn’t be happier with this dress. I want to make another – very soon! But I’ve got so many other projects on the go it might have to hold on for a bit. Don’t you think the long sleeve one in a fine wool crepe would be amazing – maybe a deep purple colour? :-D

Well, I’ve got some more updates etc but I will save that for my next post. I’ve got my Fashion Illustration class tomorrow so expect some more drawings soon.

Ciao!

My First Corset

Monday, April 16th, 2012

Hi Everyone!
On Easter weekend, as some of you may know, I attended a corset making class with The Dreamstress. Now I’ve been reading Leimomi’s blog for a couple of years now but it wasn’t through that that I found out about this course. Surprisingly, my boyfriend sent me the link via Thread Den’s website and suggested I go. I moaned about not having enough money, since getting paid monthly means you need to plan such purchases in advance…But he insisted -  “Just do it”, he said. Not being the type to need much encouragement, I signed up. :-)

And so on Good Friday I was stitching away with other eager seamstresses! Leimomi is a great teacher and we powered through making our corsets. There was one small holdup when we were all having difficulty attaching our eyelets. Pushing a tiny awl through 4 layers of fabric just wasn’t working out. Thankfully, one of our classmates piped up, saying she had a contraption that could stamp through the fabric. I have no idea what it was called – just a small metal tool that you bash with a hammer (I could Google this) and it punches out a small round of fabric to fit your eyelet through. It saved so much time! We were sewing away to the sound of multiple hammers bashing on timber as we all punched 24 holes in our corsets.

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We ran a little overtime but by the end of the day we were all up to the final steps. I’d finished everything but the binding, which I spent my Saturday finalising. It was awesome to learn that corsets aren’t as difficult to make as they seem. The pattern pieces are small and the fitting is simple and can be done with just a few pins here and there. I learnt some great techniques like ‘sandwich’ seams, which I couldn’t even begin to explain but I could show you – and they are ingenious indeed. The trickiest part was figuring out which way the busk needs to go ;-) I also found out that the simple cable tie (found at Bunnings!) is the best alternative to whalebone, used in corsets from the 1600′s onwards!

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My fabric choice was inspired by an Electra Designs colour scheme of cream and navy. I struggled with finding the exact fabrics I had in mind, and actually bought some things I didn’t end up using in the end. My stash proved helpful and I found my lining fabric there. My idea was a simple cream outer with navy binding, and a finely detailed navy & cream floral lining. Success! The binding was a last minute purchase of amazing silk satin from Clegs. The colour can’t be accurately reproduced here as it’s so dark.

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All in all, the corset doesn’t look like much from the outside, but I love the lining. It fits excellently too :-) It doesn’t reduce my waist dramatically, more so it reshapes it. As Leimomi explained, corsets don’t always reduce the actual circumference of your waist, but instead reshape it so that it becomes more cylindrical (as opposed to the flat oval it is naturally). This gives the visual effect of narrowing when looked at from front on. I like the shape it gives, and is more comfortable to wear than my cincher. That said, my cincher reduces a lot using only heavy elastic, so it’s doing heaps of work.

So Friday was a really fun day – I met some cool people who share the same passion, and we all made cool corsets. I loved seeing everyone’s fabric choices! There were some amazing ones like bright red brocade with golden embroidered birds, lustrous purple satin, black with white pinstripes (so steampunk!), subtle white patterned cream cotton, crazy geometric prints, and polka dots & florals.

My photos are a bit different than normal. I didn’t know how to capture this without looking too….boudoir… I don’t own any simple dresses to wear it over like Leimomi did with her demonstration corset…so a slip it is, and heavily cropped :-)

My current projects and things coming up: I finished my amazing green dress with cream polka dots. Its my favourite so far and I just love it. Everything about this dress is perfect and I want to make it again and again and again. It’s a 40′s pattern and naturally requires a fabric with a lot of drape, as most patterns from that era do. I’m thinking a long sleeve version in wool crepe for next time. But pictures of that soon!
I’ve also ordered some insane moss green cashmere coating for my ambitious coat project. It will be underlined with bottle green silk organza….I don’t know about the lining yet. Ideas?
Also bought some muslin for that since it will need to fitted and tailored properly.

Yesterday (Sunday) I made my first project for someone else. My best friend needed some mending work done and I went to help her out. In the process I scored some of her clothes! Win!! In return, I offered to make her some clothes :-) First up was a little 50′s shirt in a cool geometric stripe/plaid/whatevs cotton. It only took 3 hours and was so simple to put together. It looks super cute on my dress form so here’s hoping it fits her! Pic is on my Facebook if you want to take a look!

Other items – I have a princess cut Burda pencil skirt planned, and a bias cut slip.

AND – guess what!??? I’ll be drawing again very soon!! Next week! I’ve signed up to do an 8 week course at the Drawing Salon with the sensational Patsy Fox – I’m so looking forward to combining my love of fashion and art. I’ve long admired her illustrations – the expressiveness of her line-work and stunning use of colour is really inspiring. Watch this space, because Kitty’s Drawings will actually have some drawings!!

On that note, it’s time to hit the hay!

Til the weekend, when I will have polka dots and 40′s for you!
Ciao!

Antoinette Dress – Proper pics!

Sunday, April 8th, 2012

Hi All

So finally I have a creation for you. This is Suzy Pattern’s Antoinette Dress I tested a few weeks back. Took some proper photos today at last.

I probably shouldn’t have left it so long to post about this..cos I’ve forgotten some things about making it!

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I did make a muslin of the bodice for this and it was good that I did because I needed to add room in the waist. And looking back on it now, there’s still quite a few tweaks I could make to the fitting. The shoulders could widen a skosh even though I didn’t think they need to at the time. And the skirt could be longer because I like a bit more length there. Plus the ‘backside’ area isn’t perfect.

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Yet despite these small things, I do like the dress. It all somehow works and I like the lace pieces. And the vintage 30′s glass buttons at the neck.

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Sooooo I don’t really have much else to say. It’s Easter and time for lazy-supreme. I spent Friday making a corset (will show you that soon!) and yesterday finishing it…and faffing. Now I’m gonna faff some more. Cos it’s holidays. And tomorrow I might start sewing the dress I cut out the other day.

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Oh hey, I also bought some coloured mechanical pencils….I might even do some sketching soon. I’m super rusty though so nothing I’ve been doing lately is worth showing.

More comprehensive posts when my brain is working properly!

Anyways!

Ciao!

Suzy Patterns – Antoinette Dress – a preview

Sunday, March 18th, 2012

Hi Everyone

Short posting today! Today Suzy revealed her first pattern – one which I was testing…Click HERE to see the real deal…and meanwhile, here is my little preview. I’m not wearing it yet as I don’t have the good camera back to take pics…and let me tell you, a happy-snapper doesn’t compare to the Canon 1Ds Mark II in the slightest….It’s so hard to get a non-blurry photo on the Panasonic. Anyways….a pic:

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I’ll post more notes on the construction when I have more photos. The buttons are vintage glass from Etsy. I think they’re from the 30′s.

And look – it’s a dress-form! A RED one – Lady Valet too. Yay! I brought her home on Friday. It definitely makes it easier to display dresses. I haven’t sewn anything yet that needs her but I will very very soon. I can list a whole bunch of stuff on eBay now too. That ought to get me a bit of much needed dosh. I’ll have to find where I put it all first. I think a wardrobe cull is in order.

My new project is the Ooh-La-La Pinup Sew-Along, Corset Garter. I made the muslin last night and it will fit without any alterations…apart from grading it down, which was super easy thanks to THIS post. I’m making it with hook & eyes at the back as that will sit flatter than an eyelet fastening. The fabrics I’m using will be some white and purple irregular polka-dot (yep, more dots!) and pistachio green satin for the trims. I’ll be attaching 6 garter clips instead of 4, when they arrive – and I bought some pre-cut spiral steel boning to make it nice and sturdy. That said, I’m still not sure if I should try and track down some featherbone as I’d be able to wash that at least. The Rigiline plastic boning I bought from Spotlight looks flimsy and crap and I don’t think I want to use that at all.

Welllll, till next time folks!

Mccall 4864 – More Black, Red and White

Saturday, March 3rd, 2012

Hi Everyone!
Another dress is complete – another one I am super happy about. LOVE this dress!

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It’s Mccall’s 4864 from 1942 I think. I bought it from Patterns From The Past. How quirky is it!? I just love Mccall’s patterns from this era – they have heaps of nifty little details and this dress in particular has more than most. Here are some of those features:

  • 4 darts on the sleeves to give them a square shape. This would be more highlighted if I’d put in shoulder pads.
  • Low V-neck with contrast bands (also at sleeves)
  • BUTTONS on the neckline! I omitted this because it would just be a bit too much with this print ;-)
  • External darts!
  • Top-stitched pleats at the skirt
  • Tucks on the back to give a blouse effect.
  • Shoulder/neck darts for subtle shaping
  • Gored skirt – totally swing style! :-)

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Ha! And I chose to make this in busy polka-dot. Typical ;-P I think it’s some kind of rayon-y thing again. That said, I seriously doubt my fabric identifying skills. It drapes nice and was an appropriate choice for this style. Its really really comfortable and will be good for winter and summer.

I hemmed it with some red stretch lace hem tape which I had in my stash.

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The edges are trimmed in red cotton voile I bought from Lincraft. I wasn’t going to add it originally but it really makes the dress a bit more special having it there. The red stitched trim is from some rayon thread I found at half price at Clegs. It took me ages to do and it’s a *little* wonky – don’t look too closely (haha!) Yes, I did that by hand.

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I made no serious alterations to the pattern at all – Just took about 2 inches out of the length of the skirt.
The side opening closes with a hook & eye and some snaps. Still my favourite method for dresses you can only get into this way :-D
The inside is just as neat as the outside and I’m glad I took my time with this one. My new year’s resolution is kicking along nicely. I’ve been proud of everything I’ve made this year so far.

A couple of silly photos in this shoot ;-P The kitties were hanging around and being adorable.

(In the photo of me below I was squee-ing over how Boofy was so intent on turning himself inside out with sheer adoration, that he nearly fell off the couch!)

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Other news – It’s raining outside! Autumn is finally on it’s way. Yay! I much prefer the cooler weather. I’ve already started making plans for winter. Bought a small new supply of vintage seamed stockings. Have grand plans for a fit’n'flare princess coat. It’s going to be a huge project and I should really start it very soon. Ideally I want it made of hunter green silk faille but I’d need over 5 yards, at $65USD a yard, that’s a serious investment – so it will stay in pipe-dream territory for a while yet. Definitely have to think of something more accessible and easier to sew. See if I can find some nice wool without breaking the bank.

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I’m also waiting on payday so I can finally pick up the Lady Valet dress-form I put on layby. It’s crazy that I’ve gone so long without one. And I could have gone for a cheaper option but I wanted something that would last the distance. Besides, its RED. And comes with a hem marker…..Handy. :-D

My current project is testing out Suzy’s new pattern. I bought some brilliantly coloured chartreuse linen for the main parts of the dress – and the sleeves and neckline will be out of black lace.

If you’re wondering what’s happened to all the drawing…I’ve had some serious urges to get into it lately. All the best intentions huh! But when it comes down to it, I’m really pressed for time these days and sewing wins out. I’ve got my sketch pad beside my desk which is frequently getting scribbled in – and a couple of projects on the go…but I’d need a ‘holiday’ at home to get into it all. And maybe turn off the internet while I’m at it. Kinda hard to avoid the temptation when I’m on the computer already!  Sometimes I wish I could just shut myself off from EVERYTHING to allow all the ideas I know are lurking in my subconscious to float to the surface…somewhere that’s not in the city! So many temptations here and distractions. We can all dream can’t we. *le sigh*! ;-)
And yet on the other hand, I love the city – THIS city. Especially with winter coming up. Melbourne is so much nicer when it’s cold and wet outside. I’m sure a lot of people disagree with me there!

Hmm
Dilemmas!

Anyways!
Better stop dilly-dallying and get to my work ;-) ‘Til next time peeps!!